Serge Lutens — Mandarine Mandarin

Decanting from 2014 Bell Jar.

Don't expect a fresh citrus. This is mandarin turned dark, candied, and deeply oriental — Chinese orange rind and nutmeg open with an unexpectedly smoky, almost curry-ish spice that has nothing to do with Christmas pomander. Lapsang Souchong tea adds a charred, woody smokiness in the heart before the labdanum, tonka, and ambergris base pull everything into a rich, animalic marmalade that lingers for hours. Criminally underrated within the house — sits comfortably alongside Chergui and Arabie in terms of depth and complexity, but rarely gets mentioned in the same breath.

Notes:

Top notes: Chinese Orange, Nutmeg
Middle notes: Mandarin Orange, Orange Peel, Tea
Base notes: Amber, Labdanum, Tonka Bean, Rose Hip